SPEED SHOPPING
WINTER WARMERS WITH INSTANT PANACHE
What does a self contained woman look like in the age of #TimesUp and #MeToo? Designers have registered a shift in attitude to reflect a popular sentiment of empowerment to underline what great fashion has always been about: making women feel resilient and fearless. There may be no short cuts to success, but this month, my 5 go-to Winter warmer picks will instantly have you looking the biz.
01 . (Faux) Furry Logic
Since Gucci's CEO Marco Bizzarri announced the impressionable Italian brand will remove fur from all its collections from Spring/Summer 2018, it seems we’re all on the hunt for faux fur coats and teddy jackets from high fashion to high street retailers. Fear not, Gucci designer Allesandro Michel’s Renaissance aristo muse will still be able to plumb 1970s wardrobe vaults – including Margot Tenenbaum-style fur coats to wear with her fluffy loafers. They’ll just be faux. Technology is now available to produce luxurious (conscience-free) options – from animal prints through to high octane colours and pattern play.
Not all faux fur, however, is created equal. Keep in mind that silhouettes should be classic (jackets should sit just below the hips and coats just brushing the knee-tops; any longer, you’ll look swallowed up). Their artificial fibres should be soft and dense with a notable sheen, not limp, wispy and dry. No one wants to look like Leonardo in The Revenant post a bear ravaging!
I’ve got a soft spot for the Italian textile powerhouse Ainea. Choose from plush jackets and coats with bold intarsia patterns and colour blocking. You can currently find them discounted online at Yoox and The Outnet. Another favourite is the UK-based Shrimps offering leopard print jackets and coats with splashed colour collars currently on sale at Matches Fashion and Farfetch.
02 . Vroom-Vroom
Leather pants. Hands up who wants a pair but is too wary to invest? What if I put on weight you ask? Relax, they’re got a bit more give in them these days and come in more flattering silhouettes. I’m a sucker for the Scanlan Theodore range that appears every Winter with modest changes because they’re such winners. Try their Stretched Leather range in slimming black or deep sea navy. Head in store to try these styles like I do with clients:
Stretch Leather Zip Front TRSR: these are like leggings but with a zip front. They’re best worn with an oversized shirt loosely tucked in at the front, hanging out over the derriere. You can dress them down on the weekends with trainers and a big sloppy jumper or donne a fitted wool jumper layered with a below the hip or knee-skimming jacket. Best of all, these pants work with heeled ankle boots or flats and transition into Spring when worn with a loose V-neck tee.
Stretch Leather Jean: with a front zip and pockets on the hips and rear, you’ve got more detailing going on to allow for a tucked in look (pockets over the behind act as slimming agents). Given their relatively high waist they’re also less likely to slip down for those with hips (Hourglass and Pear shapes) and are ideal for Apples requiring a bit of holding in around the tummy.
Stretch Leather Slim Low Rise Trouser: With their baggy crotch, these are strictly for Rectangles – those with relatively narrow hips and long legs in need of relaxed comfort. The lower crotch elongates the torso and reduces the length of your legs, so shorties, these are not for you. And Pears, same goes for you as there are no slimming pockets on the rear and the dropped crotch literally hangs the focus on your lower hip/upper thigh regain. You can dress these pants up or down, but they’re more suitable for weekends and adding a heel to go out in rather than visiting the workplace.
03 . Slow and steady
Turtlenecks – let’s face it, they haven’t been winning any fashion stake races lately. Usually worn under duress in our youth on cold days to appease our mothers, they’re seriously back AND in! The high collar sweaters will do the trick to keep you warm and on trend if you follow these rules:
Balance ratios. Turtlenecks with a loose silhouette and oversized funnel neck are better suited to those with large chests and hips as they balance out bodily proportions. Fitted turtlenecks – à la Audrey Hepburn – are sleeker and more sophisticated, and are better suited to those with smaller breasts and slim waistlines. By all means go for stripes, but those with generous chests should just opt for vertical ribbing (ideally wide-set) – horizontal coloured stripes work better on those with small to medium-sized chests.
Snug fitting jumpers with close set neck collars will always trump loose, textured styles in the formality stakes. Balance their minimalistic nature with skirts featuring patterned details (lace overlays or printed fabrics on a pencil style, or an A-frame silhouette which is better suited to Pear and Hourglass shapes) to keep the look from being too streamlined. Ideally, pants should also have an interesting print detail or a kick flare if the top is a snug fit and a monochromatic colour.
Layer a cozy turtle sweater under a slip dress with thin straps that would otherwise bare some skin in Summer to get extra mileage out of it (including more formal dresses with appliqué or a print, so long as the they have straps, not sleeves).
Accessorising turtlenecks is easy. The high neckline provides the perfect canvas for statement jewelry up top. Think bib necklaces, multiple layered delicate necklaces, or even a shoulder-grazing solo statement earring, but only if the collar funnel is a snug fit. Steer clear of wearing neck scarves as they add too much fabric around your neck.
Either tie hair up in a high slick pony for the tighter fit collars or casually tuck it into a loose-fit funnel collar (after pulling the jumper overhead, gently bunch hair up, but leave the ends inside). Just don’t let all your hair hang over the colla r.
Uniqlo is your one stop shop to snag a turtle bargain. Carrying every jewel tone imaginable, plus classic camel, cream and black, they’re available in Merino wool and cashmere to suit all budgets.
04 . No if’s, all struts
Knee length boots have kicked their way back to the front of the closet. But many of us find it difficult to find a comfortable fit, citing tightness around the calf or even worse, impossible zippers that make our legs feel like sausage in tight skins. To avoid the bulge over the top of knee-highs, try a boot with a vertical elasticised fastening that has more give.
Stuart Weitzman is your man for knee boots that are so classic they’ve got staying power. Choose a black pair featuring a block heel for versatility with a back shaft crafted from stretch suede or leather so they fit snugly but comfortably. Offset these supremely sleek essentials with relaxed silhouettes — think a flowy midi skirt and a loosely tucked in turtleneck and denim jacket swung across your shoulders, or over leggings paired with an oversized shearling jacket (ideally faux!).
05 . Headliners
So long beanies, urban turbans are in. From Cleopatra and Lana Turner to model of the moment, Adwoa Abdoah, on the cover of Edward Enninful’s inaugural British Vogue cover last December in a Marc Jacobs head turner, turbans have long been associated with supremely stylish women. Whether you’re partial to solid already-formed styles, or tying your own with a colorful vintage scarf, a turban can add a touch of drama to anything from jeans and a V-neck wool jumper to a sweeping evening dress.
This season I’m folding my silk Hermès scarf on the diagonal to a 5cm width. I then place it under my hair and twist the ends tightly on the top of my head before pulling them back down and clasping a knot at the nape of my neck. For an even quicker fix, head to Zara for elasticised block-coloured or printed readymades with a knot. The rule: wear all turbans over the ears, just letting the lobes peak out.
To glam up a look, add a solo dangling earring or a high-wattage pair of diamantes and a coat of strong lippy. Best of all, turbans are life-savers on rushed mornings when your hair’s greasy but you’re too rushed to tend to it! Head to Shopstyle for a myriad of styles with patterns or embellishments.
